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QUESTION:I am having problems with my Bryant 383KAV gas furnace
The owners manual can be found here:
http://www.gogeisel.com/geiselonline/support/Bryant/373LAV_376CAV_383...
My problem is that it won't heat or cool and the blower keeps running
non stop, even when the thermostat is set to OFF.
I think the problem is a result of switching the programmable
thermostat from HEAT to COOL or COOL to HEAT too quickly. I guess I
should have set it to off.
The Bryant 383KAV has a status LED code. The LED code is currently
reading:
"code 33" - "LIMIT OR FLAME ROLLOUT SWITCH IS OPEN
If limit switch is open longer than 3 minutes code changes to code NO.
13
Check for:
a)Blower motor failure
b)motor start capacitor
c)open flame rollout switch, manual reset
d)inadequate combustion air supply (flame rollout switch only)
e)dirty air filter
f)defective limit switch or connections
g)loose blower wheel"
The units blower has been running for about 5 hours non-stop and the
LED status is still "33". It has not changed to code 13 yet. Here is
what the manual says for code 13. "LIMIT OR FLAME ROLLOUT SWITCH
LOCKOUT- LIMIT SWITCH WAS OPEN LONGER THAN 3 MINUTES. AUTO-RESET WILL
OCCUR AFTER 3 HOURS. FLAME ROLLOUT SWITCH REQUIRES MANUAL RESET. SEE
#33."
I have already done the manual reset limit switch procedure and
restarted the furnace and the problem still exists. The fan blower is
running constantly and the error code is still "33"
What is the next step I should take? How do I test to see if it is a
bad capacitor or a bad switch or a bad board?
ANSWER: Big hint here fella...couple actually....
one, no legitimate tech would CLEAN a limit switch without finding out why
it got dirty....(lack of normal service by chance?)
and two..
Tapping on a stuck one does not fix it...why was it tripped to start with?
Now, (not to scare you...but fact) you MIGHT have a bad switch that is
telling you something, and you have failed to correct the problem, and wont
know about it till the furnace fails in a manner that might cost you life,
or home..
Spend the $70 or so to get it checked properly. or dont.....but this is why
we dont give advice here. Halfassed "repairs" by non qualified persons. Did
you check the CO output? Heat rise? Check for an exchanger issue?
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